The state of Vermentino is pure pleasure. So I raised my eyebrows to the challenge to show there were different styles of the vermentino grape. To me it is obvious: all vermentino seems to show a wave of glamourous flavour which ends in a quiet shhhh of reaching the shore. Whether the Vermentino is from Liguria, Tuscany, Sardinia or the emerging areas in Australia. But there are differences.
Solosole, Poggio al Tessoro, from Maremma is quite simply the taste of licking warm, bronzed skin after a swim in the ocean ending in the quiet of an acidic kiss. Australian vermentino, from Chalmers in Mildura in Australia, also shows the very lean, citrus mineral style after an exciting display of flavours (smoky, herbs, orange/lemon). If you know the superb Rieslings from Eden Valley you will know what I mean by the eventual leaness.
But it is Sardinia that takes the award for pure fabulous beach style; but, is it really surprising? There’s no other way of saying it – this is rich for the rich. The Cala Silente Vermentino di Sardegna from Santadi simply drips with style from the strong flavours of rosemary, 00 flour and leather reaching a peak of richness to subside into cool freshness that just keeps going and going never ends with any nasty acidity but just keeps willing to please until the very end with its slight residual sugar that’s almost charming with its off-handedness. You just know it knows it has been beautiful since it was born.
Vermentino’s hardcore glam-more is not for everyone, then again, not everyone in these grey days can always remember real pleasure. Perhaps we all need some more sun, no?
“What are the three things you like most in life?”
“I like lots of things. But there are three things I like the most: love, love and love.”
Video: La Dolce Vita (1960)
Vermentino reviewed from Enotria, Chalmers and Liberty Wines.